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Next we focus on the rear wheel itself.  It is handy here to take a small hydraulic screw post type jack and sit it under the front portion of the swingarm.  I like to take a short piece of 2'x4' about 18" long and lay it across the bottom rearmost portion of the swingarm, just ahead of the pivot bolt location.  This small jack is to be used to stabilize and adjust the height of the swingarm during our work.  The post jack is centered under the 2'x4'.  The 2'x4' is located perpendicular to the length of the bike.Crank the small jack up until the post just touches the 2'x4' and exerts just a small bit of pressure on it.  Now you can lower the car jack from under the rear tire and roll it out and away for the time being.  Unbolt and remove the brake caliper.  It may be possible to take the small hose brackets loose and give yourself enough slack to leave the caliper connected to the hose and tie it back out of your way.  Make sure you lay some nice cloth or something between the caliper and the exhaust pipes as the caliper will tend to lie on top of the pipes and will otherwise scratch them.  Also, do not let the caliper hang by the hose.  Next thing I want you to do is to take a large rag or protective cloth and wrap it around the rear portion of the exhaust pipes and tape it snug.  This will prevent any of our work from scratching the pipes.You are now ready to remove the wheel.  Locate the rear wheel axle.  The right side has a large locknut and the left side has an Allen head end.  Insert your Allen wrench into the axle to hold the axle while turning the locknut counterclockwise to loosen it.The locknut is a large metric size but I use an SAE wrench that is 1 1/16" and it fits perfectly.  The Allen end of the axle is different for the 1300 and the 1800.  The 1300's use a 8mm Allen wrench, while the 1800's use a 12mm Allen wrench.Once the locknut is off, take a rubber hammer and tap the axle out the left side of the bike.  If you can?t get a straight hit on it because of the exhaust in the way, then use a drift pin to reach past the exhaust and tap it through.  As the axle starts to move to the left, you will be able to remove the rear brake caliper bracket as it clears the bracket.  Lay that to the side making sure not to lose the small keeper clip that is attached to it.  Next is the small spacer between the wheel bearing and the caliper bracket.  Remove that too, and set to the side.  Once the axle is flush with the right side wheel hub, you can try to pull the axle out from the left side of the final drive housing.  It may help to turn it a bit as you pull on it.  If it does not come out easily, go back to the right side and use a small drift pin to tap the axle through to the right side and remove.Once the axle is out, the rear wheel will be held in place only by its engagement with the final drive assembly so be careful not to let it fall.  Stabilize the wheel and slide the wheel away from the final drive or to the right side of the bike until it disengages from the final drive.  At this point, the wheel and drive flange assembly will drop down and feed out of the back of the bike as you allow the auto jack to lower.Congratulations, you are well on your way!

Click on the Links below to go the the page your seeking help on installation ...

Fender RemovalRear Wheel RemovalRear Wheel Disassembly and Re-assemblyRemoval of Final Drive from SwingarmRemoval of SwingarmSwingarm Re-installationDrive Shaft Re-installationRe-installation of the Final Drive and Rear Wheel AssemblyInstall Instructions For Newly Chromed or Polished Final Drive


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